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A few months after swapping my drivetrain, I decided to upgrade to solid-state torque mounts for my 2000 Civic EJ8 coupe. My reasons were twofold:

1. When I removed the old torque mounts, I discovered they were completely shot—especially the driver’s side mount, which had no rubber left intact.
2. My car jerked at low RPMs, particularly in first gear, making for a less-than-smooth driving experience.

Additionally, with plans to turbocharge the car, I wanted to ensure that power was delivered to the wheels more efficiently by reducing engine movement.

So, after scouring eBay and Amazon, filtering through thousands of nearly identical mounts from different sellers, I finally settled on the EMUSA torque mounts. Their design was simple yet robust, making them stand out from the rest.

Tools Needed for Installation

Before starting, gather these tools:

• Car jack
• Jack stands
• Wheel wrench
• 3/8-inch ratchet (or power tool)
• 19mm socket + long extension (possibly two extensions)
• 14mm socket
• Hex-bit socket
• Long-length screwdriver

Optional:

• Cardboard or mat – to lay on
• Crate or stoop – to sit on

Removal Process

1. Loosen the wheel nuts.
2. Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheels.
3. Place jack stands underneath the vehicle and lower the car onto them.
4. Use the ratchet, extensions, and 19mm socket to loosen the main torque bolt.
5. Position the jack under the engine and raise it just enough to support the engine’s weight.
6. Use the ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket to remove the two chassis bolts securing the torque mount. Once loosened, the mount should drop off—especially if the rubber is broken.

Installation Process

1. Lower the engine slightly so the new mount can slide onto the bracket spindle.
2. Place the provided washers onto the spindle. (I positioned the side with the protruding inner rubber facing the engine, just like the OEM setup.)
3. Screw on the nut loosely—just enough for the mount to move freely.
4. Jack the engine up until the mount is close enough to the chassis for a bolt to connect it.
5. Use a screwdriver in one of the holes to help align the mounting hole with the chassis bolt hole.
6. Thread in one of the supplied bolts while keeping the screwdriver in place to maintain alignment. The bolt should screw in freely without binding.
7. Once the support bolt is in, hand-thread the supplied hex bolt until it stops, then use the hex-bit socket to tighten both bolts.
8. Torque the chassis bolts to 33 ft-lbs (OEM spec).
9. Tighten the main nut and torque it to 43 ft-lbs (OEM spec).

With one side done, move on to the next and repeat the same process until finished.

Lessons Learned the Hard Way

As easy as this install might sound, my experience wasn’t quite so smooth. The EMUSA mounts are wider than the OEM ones, so if you don’t align the hole before setting the bolts, the side of the mount can hit the chassis and create an offset.

When this happens, attempting to screw in the bolts causes them to bind and bite into the inner wall of the mount, stripping the threads.

Don’t ask me how I know this.

Final Thoughts

The EMUSA solid-state torque mounts are a solid upgrade for anyone looking to reduce engine movement, especially if you plan on adding more power to your setup. While the installation is relatively straightforward, proper alignment is crucial to avoid headaches.

Would I recommend these mounts? Absolutely—but with a word of caution: Take your time aligning everything properly, and you’ll be golden.

Have you installed aftermarket torque mounts? Share your experience in the comments!