A few months after swapping my drivetrain, I decided to upgrade to solid-state torque mounts for my 2000 Civic EJ8 coupe. My reasons were twofold:
When I removed the old torque mounts, I discovered they were completely shot—especially the driver’s side mount, which had no rubber left intact.
My car jerked at low RPMs, particularly in first gear, making for a less-than-smooth driving experience.
Additionally, with plans to turbocharge the car, I wanted to ensure that power was delivered to the wheels more efficiently by reducing engine movement.
So, after scouring eBay and Amazon, filtering through thousands of nearly identical mounts from different sellers, I finally settled on the EMUSA torque mounts. Their design was simple yet robust, making them stand out from the rest.
Tools Needed for Installation
Before starting, gather these tools:
Car jack
Jack stands
Wheel wrench
3/8-inch ratchet (or power tool)
19mm socket + long extension (possibly two extensions)
14mm socket
Hex-bit socket
Long-length screwdriver
Optional:
Cardboard or mat – to lay on
Crate or stoop – to sit on
Removal Process
Loosen the wheel nuts.
Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheels.
Place jack stands underneath the vehicle and lower the car onto them.
Use the ratchet, extensions, and 19mm socket to loosen the main torque bolt.
Position the jack under the engine and raise it just enough to support the engine’s weight.
Use the ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket to remove the two chassis bolts securing the torque mount. Once loosened, the mount should drop off—especially if the rubber is broken.
Installation Process
Lower the engine slightly so the new mount can slide onto the bracket spindle.
Place the provided washers onto the spindle. (I positioned the side with the protruding inner rubber facing the engine, just like the OEM setup.)
Screw on the nut loosely—just enough for the mount to move freely.
Jack the engine up until the mount is close enough to the chassis for a bolt to connect it.
Use a screwdriver in one of the holes to help align the mounting hole with the chassis bolt hole.
Thread in one of the supplied bolts while keeping the screwdriver in place to maintain alignment. The bolt should screw in freely without binding.
Once the support bolt is in, hand-thread the supplied hex bolt until it stops, then use the hex-bit socket to tighten both bolts.
Torque the chassis bolts to 33 ft-lbs (OEM spec).
Tighten the main nut and torque it to 43 ft-lbs (OEM spec).
With one side done, move on to the next and repeat the same process until finished.
Lessons Learned the Hard Way
As easy as this install might sound, my experience wasn’t quite so smooth. The EMUSA mounts are wider than the OEM ones, so if you don’t align the hole before setting the bolts, the side of the mount can hit the chassis and create an offset.
When this happens, attempting to screw in the bolts causes them to bind and bite into the inner wall of the mount, stripping the threads.
Don’t ask me how I know this.
Final Thoughts
The EMUSA solid-state torque mounts are a solid upgrade for anyone looking to reduce engine movement, especially if you plan on adding more power to your setup. While the installation is relatively straightforward, proper alignment is crucial to avoid headaches.
Would I recommend these mounts? Absolutely—but with a word of caution: Take your time aligning everything properly, and you’ll be golden.
Have you installed aftermarket torque mounts? Share your experience in the comments!
‘Editor’s Note: This Column will centre on the installation of the fog lights and not the modification of the non-modified bumper.’
Today we are installing a yollow lens fog light on the Honda Civic that was purchased off of eBay. It took two weeks to arrived but they were delivered in perfect tming as the car had just came out of the paint shop the previous day.
What’s In The Box
In the package were the following items:
2* Fog Light Exterior Housing Cover
2* Yellow Fog Lamp Housing
8* Philips Round Head Self Tapping Screws
8* Philips Modified Truss Screws
2* Philips Round Head Machine Screws
2* Wire Mesh Grills
1* Fog Light Connectors & Wire Harness
1*Fog Light Switch -Wire Harness
1* Fog Light Switch
1* Extension Cable (Red)
1* Solderless Quick Snap Wire Splice Connector
1* Wiring Diagram
There was no Installation guide or instruction wasn’t included in the package.
Tools Used
Ratchet
10mm socket
5/16 socket (or the metric equivalent)
Philips Screw Driver
Fastener Remover Tool (or any flat-head tool)
Power Drill & Drill Bit
Safety Scraper Blades
Prep-work
Where ever you choose to work, cover the work area on the ground and and cover the table or any make-shift work bench as you’ll be working in these two area.
Open the car hood and remove the five (5) clips on top of the grill and the two (2) clips on each side of the grill. On each side of the bumper, remove the single screws holdng the bumper to the side fender with either the Philips screw driver or the 5/16 socket (note: the 5/16 was easier to work with).
Underneath the bumper, you’ll find two (2) Philips head screw at both ends. Remove them with a screw driver. There will also be two(2) bolts in the middle, Remove them with a 10mm socket and a ratchet.
The Bumper will be free and ready to be pulled off the car.
Fog Light Housing Installation
Move the bumper over to your work station and rest it on a non-abrasive material to protect it from scratching. Layout the hardware from the package and place the lamp housing and hardware to its corresponding locations as they will be marked with “R” (Right) or “L” (Left).
Right-side lamp housing with mounting brackets
There are two ways that the lamp can be mouned to the bumper. You can assemble the lamp and the bracket together, then moun to the underside of the bumper
OR you can mount the bracket to the bumper first, then mount the lamp to the bracket.
Use the self tapping screews to mount the lamp assembly to the back of the bumper (shown in pcture).
With both of the lamps done, it’s time to move too…
Wire-harness Installation
In the bag of wiresprovided, seperate the lamp connector wire harness from the lamp switch wire harness. You can place the switch harness, along with the extension cable (and the switch) in the car.
At the front of the car, layout the wire harness wth the red “power” cable to the battery side of the car and the yellow cable laying in the opposite end. Using a 10mm socket and ratchet, disconnect the battery erminals. remove the air box (if you still have one) with the 10mm and place it out of the way. Use any tool or method of your choice to snake the red “power” cable into the engine bay and connect it to either the positive battery terminal or the fuse box. When done, use the zip-ties (if provided) to secure any loose wires.
10mm to loosen the battery terminalBattery terminal removed. Air-box removed.snaking in the power-wire
power wire connected to the positive terminal and secure with zip-ties
On the opposite side of the car, snake the yellow wire into the engine bay via the windshiel washer and pull it towards the firewall until it stops. Connect the black “ground” cable to any flat metal mounting surface near the windshield washer resevoir.
lamp wire snaked into the car.wire length ends at the fire-wall.Lamp wire harness ground connected via the windshield washer mount.
Near the brake booster, remove the nearest rubber grommet with a body trim tool (or any flat-edge tool). Thrugh the new opening is where you’ll run the extension “red” cable. Using a power drill and a drill bit, make a wide enough hole for the extension cable to pass through.
Removing the rubber grommet with a body trim tool.
Access hole drilled with a power tool and drill bit.
Iside the car, run the male connector of the extension cable through the opening, then through the rubber grommet and connect it to the female yellow cable connector. Re-install the rubber grommet and the wire harness is done.
extension wire routed through access hole in the rubber grommet.
Lamp wire and extension wire securely connected.
Next is….
Light Switch Installation
Inside the car, remove the lower dash panel underneath the steering wheel with a philips screw-driver and pry the panel down to realese the three supporting clips holding the panel to the dash. Disconnect the cruise control and the electric mirror from he panel and place it somewhere safe ut of your way.
underneath the dash, connect the male yellow wire connector to the female red extention cable connector. The remain wires on the harness will be the ground “black” wire and the lamp “red” (power) wire. The wire was labled “L ignition”, therefore i’ll call it ignition. For the ignition wire, if it comes with a brown clip connecor plug at the end, nsert the plug into the corresponding empty port on the fuse panel that has power. If it’s a bare wire (ike shown), you will have to splice it into a wire that has power the fuse panel.
(Red)Extension wire, Light switch harness, light switch and a red wire splicer clip.
Lamp switch wire and extension wire securely connected.
Lamp switch power wire and ground wire.
Splicing The Wires
When you have selected the wire that you want to connect the ingnition wire too, take your sharp instrument (i.e. wire-cutter, razor blade or knife) making sure that your cut is a few meters away from any connection plugs or contact points and cut around the wire insulation until the wires are exposed underneath.
Take the red splicer and insert it onto the wire in the bottom slot of the splicer. Make sure that the metal “splicer” on the tab is aligned with the splicer that you-re cut into the wre. Take the “red wire” and insert it into the top slot above the spliced wire. fold the connectr tab over and use it to push down the metal splicer to anchor the two wires together. you’ll know when they’re connected when the tab clasped close. If not, you may have to gently knock the splicer in with a blunt object without bending it. then clasp the tab shut.
Lamp switch power wire securely spliced into the ignition wire.
Ground
The only other wire to be connected is black ground wire. this wire can be connected to any non-painted metal surface on the car (as shown).
Ground wire secured to the nearest mounting point.
Finishing Up
Take any loose or hanging wires and secure them underneath the dash using zip-ties or twist ties out of sight and out of the way of your legs.
To add the new light switch, you will have to remove any one of the dummy tabs from an empty slot and side the switch into the slot until it snaps secured. reconnect the cruise control, mirror and the new light switch connector plugs. Turn on the car and test the foglights for proper operations. Once everything is operating properly and there’s no issues, re-install the panel and clean up any dirt you’ve created.
Installing the Housing Covers
The foglamp units comes with two exterior covers, the cover varies on your selection. At the back of the covers, they’re labled “L” for left and “R” for right. Each cover has a portuding tab underneath, take the cover for the corresponding sides of the car and slide the tab into the portruding hanger on the foglight housing. When it connects, press down on the opposite side and aligh the screw hole on the cover to the one on the foglight housing. Use the long screws provided and hand tighten. Do the next side in simular fashion until done. (note: the covers may not fit correctly at first try. Be patient, take your time to see where the problem occuring and adjust accordingly.)
Bumper Re-install
With the covers installed, go and re-install the bumper using the reverse steps taken to take if off. check and insure that the bumper isnt out of line, sagging or showing any gaps. Also check that the new wires arent caught or pinched in the bumper and the lights are operating properly.
Once you’re completed the checks, you’re officially done.
Good Work! Give yourself a pat on the back.
Conclusion
For this install, the time it took was four (4) hours, even though I did it before. The reason for the time is due to the prep and paintwork for the grills (If your package comes with it). For Newbies and those who have to cut out the opening for their lights. Do expect to add an additional two (2) hours of work-time.
Having all the tools and workspace prepped cuts down on any lost time and makes the work seamless. Despite how long it took, it is a great reward when you see them light up, especially at night. The great pride and the feeling of accomplishment is something that can not be easily expressed with words but it’s totally worth it.
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